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What is Haute Couture? Is it the same as Couture? Check out Fashion-Era.com and Pauline Weston Thomas will give you a quick little lesson on what makes couture "Haute".

Haute Couture is a French phrase for high fashion. Couture means dressmaking, sewing, or needlework and haute means elegant or high, so the two combined imply excellent artistry with the fashioning of garments. The purchase of a haute couture model garment is at the top level of hand customised fashion design and clothing construction made by a couture design house. A model haute couture garment is made specifically for the wearer's measurements and body stance. The made to measure exclusive clothes are virtually made by hand, carefully interlined, stay taped and fitted to perfection for each client.

On Tuesday, August 29th, STAGR launched its premier collection at the “G-Suite” in Palms Casino Resort. UFC fighter Chris Leben was the evening’s special guest. Guests and members of the media enjoyed music spun by special DJ Malik from The Real World, Back to New York and had the chance to create their own customized STAGR shirt.

Here is the Heatherette line showed at New York Fashion Week. Some say the line was all about "Mommy Drinks" The drunk, slutty mom look also called "pre-teen cool"

Our nation's capital has never been home to the most forward thinking of fashionistas. Power suits remain "en vogue" and it isn't atypical to see shoulder pads on otherwise rational well educated women.

Thus Washington fashion is a scene dominated by the two Annes: Anne Klein and Ann Taylor. American sportswear is apparently an "Ann" thing.

Thus today when Anne Klein announced Isabel Toledo as the new Creative Director of the Anne Klein Designer Collection it seems that Washington fashion might get shook up after all these years.

You see Ms Toledo is a classic designer but with a twist drawing inspiration from her husband Ruben's sculpture work. According to a retrospective at Kent State Ms Toledo is rather far from Anne Klein territory.

Strong shapes are a Toledo trademark. Ruben sculpts bizarre anthropomorphic figures. Isabel uses cloth to emulate a fantastic variety of creatures. Their search for plasticity and volume ranges over the entire natural world.

One of Toledo's signature pieces is the cocoon jacket
which will surely be an interesting piece to see on Washington women.

Can anyone imagine Condi Rice wearing structural pieces with volume that both hide and highlight the body? I guess a new kind of fashion armour is coming to town. Bravo Anne Klein for being so daring. The beltway may never be the same.

Hennes & Mauritz, Europe's largest fashion retailer, has once again sealed a deal with Madonna for a new fashion line.

Madonna has teamed up with Margareta van den Bosch, H&M's head of design, to create the "M by Madonna" women's wear collection, scheduled to be launched globally in March, the company said Thursday.

This is the second time the 48-year-old pop singer has collaborated with the Swedish clothing chain. H&M supplied Madonna and her entourage with an offstage wardrobe for her "Confessions" world tour.

"I've made no secret of my love for fashion and trends," Madonna said in a statement. "Working with Margareta and H&M was an exciting and new creative challenge for me. I'm really happy with the results and look forward to wearing `M by Madonna' along with the rest of the world."

H&M said the new collection will "reflect Madonna's timelessness, unique and always glamorous style."

Designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Viktor & Rolf have produced collections for H&M.

PRIMEDIA Enterprises and TS2 are collaborating to launch a new apparel line dubbed “Busby Ltd.” under the Surfer brand. Surfer, a magazine and brand known for his global reach and connection with passionate surfing enthusiasts, has been around since 1960. With such a connection to loyal surfing die-hard’s, it is only the next logical step to extend its branding into its core market that sees surfing as a lifestyle.

The Busby Ltd. label will create a line of Surfer branded shorts and board shorts, t-shirts, sweatshirts and headwear for boys, as well as men’s t-shirts, sweatshirts, and headwear. Also under this label a lifestyle apparel line will launch called JOB Apparel Collective and a shorts-focused line of authentic plaids called TARTAN. All retail lines will become available at the retail level come Spring 2007.

The focus of this apparel line is to keep true to the authentic surfing culture, which is one that is deep and passionate about their lifestyle. Launching this apparel line only deepens Surfer’s connection with its consumers, whom identify the Surfer brand as the voice and authority on surfing.

Once this apparel line debuts, it will be interesting to see if surfers feel that Busby Ltd. has lived up to the Surfer name. For those who want a sneak peak prior to Spring, you can catch Surfer and its Busby Ltd. line at the Surf Expo this January.

You know him from That 70’s Show and Yo Momma, he co-owns three restaurants (Dolce, The Lodge and Geisha House), but now Wilmer Valderrama is looking to do more. It’s reported that he will launch a men’s fashion line called Calavena this February.

Calavena is said to be a clothing line that is a mix of Latino-inspiration and Diesel. The line will consist of jeans, t-shirts and jackets. Valderrama joins the ranks of many celebrities that are launching their own clothing lines such as Tommy Lee, Justin Timberlake and Gwen Stephani. The trend seems to be progressing with celebrities launching not only their own clothing lines, but fragrances as well, with a positive money making track record to boot.

Will this trend continue to move upward and remain successful or eventually bottom out?

When I came across a news headline regarding Ali Spizman, a few things captured my eye. Ali is only 19 years old, but has already published two books and designed handbags for Claire’s to raise funds for Make-A-Wish Foundation, of which she is a National Teen Ambassador for.

While this is not breaking news, Spizman designed Handbag of Hope in 2005, I have to say first and foremost, how refreshing is it to see a teenager doing something positive and giving of themselves to others? Secondly, my very dear friend passed away from terminal cancer at the age of 23 in 2001. She was granted a wish through Make-A-Wish before her death and since her passing I have tried to faithfully make a donation to the charity on the anniversary of her death and birthday each year since. My friend Elke, who also had a good friend pass away from cancer at a young age, is involved in the Make-A-Wish Foundation as well, and as a Celebrity Makeup Artist is able to grant wishes.

If you have not heard of Ali Spizman or have seen her Handbag of Hope, you simply need to do so. Ali was inspired by a 12-year-old terminally ill child by the name of Hope whose wish was for all of the children in her area to be granted their wishes. A radio show interviewed Hope before her death, which resulted in the raising of $1.1 million dollars in 4 weeks for the charity. Spizman was inspired and decided to carry on Hope’s mission by creating her signature handbags. The handbags are sold at Claire’s with a minimum of 10% of the profit going to Make-A-Wish Foundation. To date, Handbag of Hope has raised $300,000.

Thanks to a fabulous post on Fashion Indie, I came across H.O.R.R.S., otherwise known as Habana Outpost Recycled Reject Shop (try saying that ten times fast). Although the name may be a tongue twister, the genius behind this shop will have you tongue-tied.

Lopeti Etu and Sean Meenan are the founders of this eco-friendly fashion shop which began with Meenan encouraging Etu to use the scraps from his friend’s silk screening company to create designs of his own. Etu, who studied design at the Fashion Institute of Technology, went to work and began creating one of a kind pieces mixing old with new.

Recently H.O.R.R.S. opened The Stroll, their retail shop located in Brooklyn to sell their designs. The Stroll is not only a clothing store, but also a community hang out. The Stroll has events such as Game Night, Knitting and Crocheting classes, a Book Club and Movie Night among other things (you can check out their calendar of events here). Etu and Meenan are more than retailers; they offer a sense of community, something that will bring them brand loyalty as a result.

If you are in the Brooklyn area, be sure to check them out!
The Stroll
109 S. Portland Ave.
Brooklyn, NY 11217

Lapo Elkann, heir to the Fiat empire and head of its brand promotion, has launched the first carbon fiber sunglasses under the Italia Independent brand. Elkann, who almost died in 2005 from a drug overdose, has come back in full force doing what he does best; designing and promoting accessories for the Fiat brand.

The sunglasses, the first to be made entirely out of carbon fiber, are the first “personal” accessories to be made by the Italia Independent brand. Sever, the name of the sunglasses, are said to be made of over 40 carbon skins and go through a special process ensuring that these sunglasses cannot be replicated as counterfeit. Their look and style also make them completely unisex. Italia Independent’s “Conceived, developed and produced 100% in Italy” is a new theme to promote pride in Italian craftsmanship and reinstate power of Italian luxury. The sunglasses will sell for 1,000 euros, which is $1300 in US dollars.

The theme of Sever and Italia Independent flow with Fiat’s branding promoting style, strength and Italian luxury. Will Fiat labeled fashion help increase loyalty and that must-have quality giving its cars and fashion accessories that “it” factor? What do you think?

When Cynthia couldn’t find anything less than white cotton, she took matters into her own hands. She went to a manufacturer with designs in mind, although she had absolutely no training in design, and had them create what has now become one of the first lingerie lines for nursing mothers. Who says that we need to wear matronly undergarments merely because we gave birth? You can see my rant about this back in our November archives.

Condessa Inc., which is based in Los Angeles, launched its first lingerie nursing line Condessa Cassandra to international acclaim. The line has no underwire, 18% spandex, lace cups, pearl snaps and satin shoulder straps for support. The Condessa Veronica line boasts beautiful colors, underwire support and drop down cups. The bras are made of Milliskin, allowing stretch while maintaining true cup size and support. The newest collection, Condessa Veronica, was shown this week at the Mom 2 Be show in Los Angeles and will launch here on the East Coast at Lingerie America February 7-9th. Each collection also has matching panties that come in a variety of styles.

I cannot help but want to send a personal letter to Cynthia expressing my sincere thanks in taking an interest in the part of fashion that most of the industry pushes aside. Many don’t think there should be anything sexy about motherhood, but beyond being a mother (and nursing mother at that) we are still women who crave to wear something sexy, yet comfortable and functional. More designers should follow her lead and they will soon find that they will be coming upon an untapped market desperately waiting for them.

When you work for a designer with such creativity as Betsey Johnson, how can you not be inspired to venture out on your own and show the world your own talents? That is just what Jordi Scott is doing. Scott is a former designer for Johnson and decided to launch her own clothing line, which will debut on February 5th at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in NYC.

The clothing line is inspired by modern art and punk rock and Scott says that the collection will be unlike anything else out on the market. You get a sense of that rock and roll feel from the minute you land on the homepage of her website with the Rolling Stones-like logo on the center of the page. The motto for Jordi Scott’s line is, “Trends come and go, but your spirit will always remain.” It will be interesting to see the styles and colors of her line, as her picture on her website reminds me very much of that punk rock look inspired by The Sex Pistols and The Clash back in the early 80’s.

You can keep up to date on Jordi Scott through her MySpace page and website. Her fashion show takes place on February 5th at Arena, located at 135 West 41st Street, at 9pm.

February 2nd:

The Tent: The Heart Truth Red Dress Collection 11:00am, BCBG Max Azria 3:00pm
The Salon: John Bartlett 10:00am, Marc Bouwer 5:00pm
The Promenade: Perry Ellis 1:00pm, Nicole Miller 7:00pm, Akiko Ogawa 6:00pm
W Hotel 594 Lexington Ave.: Yeolee
Roseland Ballroom: Baby Phat 8:00pm
Altman Building: Grey Ant 9:00pm

February 3rd:

The Tent: Lacoste 11:00am, Alexandre Herchcovitch 3:00pm
The Salon: Chris Han 10:00am, Alice Roi 1:00pm, Abaete 6:00pm, Venexiana 9:00pm
The Promenade: Maticevski 12:00pm, Atil Kutoglu 2:00pm, Sass & Bide 7:00pm
Showroom: Buckler 4:00pm, Cabbeen 8:00pm
Altman Building 135 W 18th St: Gustavo Arrango 5:00pm
Bumble & Bumble: Karen Walker 1:00pm
NYC Bar Association: James Coviello 2:00pm
Prince George Ballroom: ThreeAsFour 5:00pm

February 4th:

The Tent: Diane von Furstenberg 4:00pm, Naeem Khan 6:00pm, Matthew Williamson 8:00pm
The Salon: Lela Rose 10:00am, Twinkle by Wenlan 1:00pm, Terexov 9:00pm
The Promenade: Tadashi 11:00am, Tracy Reese 2:00pm, Tuleh 7:00pm
Showroom: Erin Fetherston 3:00pm
711 Greenwich Street: DKNY 12:00pm
Cunard Building 25 Broadway: Z Zegna 5:00pm
Exit Art: United Bamboo 3:00pm
Sony Music Studios: Luella Bartley 5:00pm
Waterfront Building: 3.1 Phillip Lim 6:00pm

Everyone has an opinion, you can count on that, and opinions on the designers and their fashion shows at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week is no different. Here are videos from various designers from Fashion Week in NYC with reviews from fashion editors and fashion bloggers alike. Be sure to check out Chic.TV coverage of fashion week on You Tube, for all the videos check out Chic.tv website, it's some of the better quality fashion footage I've seen this year.

Oscar de la Renta Watch Video

WWD: De la Renta’s collection was, in a word, dazzling, and not only in its well-controlled embroideries. It shone as well in its security; its grounded, cross-generational appeal and its fabulous expression of sporty luxe.
Fashion Week Daily: Oscar de la Renta's latest collection was designed with dames in mind. It’s all the contradictions real women have been clamoring for since the babydoll dress came back into fashion. We say: vive de la Renta!
Godfrey Deeny, Fashion Wire Daily: Oscar de la Renta is twice the age of most of the 200 odd designers who will stage shows in New York this season, yet when it comes to the attitude of his classy fashion, it's probably fresher than any of them and more in step with the real world.
Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan, WSJ Heard on the Runway: Designers may be collectively heralding a return to more polished dressing and tailored looks, but that’s probably not news to Oscar de la Renta, who has never veered far from his core mission of creating luxurious suits, ballgowns and accessories for the rich and famous.

Diane von Furstenberg Watch Video

WWD: Typically savvy fusion of the sensual and the sensible, but with a notable upgrade to the sophistication level, starting with the palette.
Fashion Week Daily: Though DVF's collection was decidedly dress-centric, that didn't equal a lack of variety. Even the black frocks, of which there were many, had an eye-pleasing uniqueness, and each one she sent one down the runway felt as fresh as the first time.
Nicole Phelps, Style.com: Her collection was singular in its focus on dresses. Many of the dresses came with matching coats, a nod toward the designer's sense of practicality, an asset that should serve her industry well in the coming months.
Godfrey Deeny, Fashion Wire Daily: Von Furstenberg’s fall 2007 collection was a swaggering tour through Iberian culture that inspired prolonged applause in Bryant Park. Though not exactly demure, it was ladylike, poised and entirely fitting for a stroll across St Peter's Square.
Rachel Michaela, Style Bites: The fall collection opened disappointingly with black on black. Sad, since DVF does color so well. At the worst moments (there was the linebacker-like jacket, then the metallic pewter monstrosity of a top and skirt, and at least one graphic dress nightmare) the models looked positively fat.


Doo. Ri Watch Video

WWD: The collection she presented on Tuesday wasn’t groundbreaking, but it showed hints of a step forward. The second half of the show, comprising variations on the jersey dress, often embellished with architectural crystal harnesses, felt a bit one-note and even lackluster.
Fashion Week Daily: Doo-Ri made a tentative foray into color, mixing a mellow, muted turquoise with burgundy and even a pop of lemon yellow. The collection seemed to find her in a transitional phase, gone were the cinched waists of seasons past, replaced by elongated torsos ending just above the hip.
Nicole Phelps, Style.com: The crystal cages and harnesses worn over her signature jersey dresses got a little complicated, and it would've been nice to see her work in colors other than bordeaux, emerald, and navy.
Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune: Doo-Ri Chung had a soft and graceful take on silk, draping it into a top over a bib of sequins and scooping up the sides of a jersey dress. The palette of wine, blue and peacock green made for a repetitive show, but its effect was youthful with a touch of romance.
Lauren Dimet, Second City Style: The bubble-hemmed jersey dresses and frocks began looking very repetitious, but the bordeaux and emerald printed Georgette dress with Swarovski crystal blew me away. She will do very well with this line. She is a crowd pleaser and so darn adorable and talented, you can't resist.

Carolina Herrera Watch Video

Fashion Week Daily: The designer seemed to be juggling a widening scope of references: a square, three quarter sleeve fur tunic worn over a straight plaid skirt paired with substantially spangled stockings for an almost grunge-like layered effect, adapted for the Park Avenue set; when the skirt's pattern showed up again in a bustier dress, the effect was nearer to Anglomania.
Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan WSJ Heard on the Runway: A polished collection featuring dresses made with perforated felt, coats with dramatic funnel-necked collars and tailored, slouchy jackets with wide lapels. Color-wise, she said her subdued palette of blue, “grape,” ash and bark was influenced by Edvard Munch’s somber portrait of Norwegian philosopher Hans Jaeger.
Nicole Phelps, Style.com: With dark menswear plaids and jacquards juxtaposed against the artistic detailing that has lately become a Herrera signature, the effect was altogether different from her confectionary-sweet spring outing.
Godfrey Deeny, Fashion Wire Daily: Herrera’s collection for fall 2007 oozed haute sophistication, from the remarkable jacquard coats to the stockings finished with jade.
Girlawhirl: Favorite new look are the pants, high waisted, slim through the hip and thigh and full through the rest of the leg to the ground where they flipped and flickered as the models walked.

Erin Fetherston Watch Video

WWD: Erin Fetherston showed froufrou dresses in fabrics that appeared a bit cheap, but her PYT friends are likely to find at least one star in the collection.
Fashion Week Daily: Erin Fetherston sent a sweet and lowdown little collection down her silver, star-spangled runway. For demurely divine, goddess-like evening gowns that closed the show, we'll be dreaming 'til they hit stores for sure.
Lindsay Sammon, Fashion Wire Daily: A memorable addition to this season’s collection was Fetherston’s use of the cape, shown with constellation and butterfly prints, and affixed to the back of dresses in a way that gave the garments lift and endless fluidity.
Meenal Mistry, Style.com: The collection occasionally ventured toward the less-sophisticated side of girlish with a couple of Lurex pieces, it was a solid effort that will keep the growing Fetherston fan base more than happy.
FabSugar: Erin Fetherston's designs are what little big girls dream about. Super feminine and girly, while remaining modern, here is a collection that wisks you away to a beautiful boudoir floating in space.

M by Madonna. As if this 48 year old mother of three needs to do one more thing to prove to the world just how talented she is, Madonna has officially added fashion designer to her stable of titles. While a career half as accomplished would satisfy most people, this head strong Leo is always striving for the unknown or more to the point - the unconquered, which deserves respect!

Of course Madonna is no stranger to fashion. While some celebrity labels warrant a head scratching, this collaboration was a no brain-er! Her fashion statements have garnered world wide attention for two decades. No women has done more to make us rethink gender roles. Much like icons before her such as Marlene Dietrich and Coco Chanel, Madonna is a creation of her own making. This month in London, British Elle presented her with a Style Icon award to formally acknowledge all she has done for the runway over the years.

Last year her Confessions tour was the highest grossing female concert tour - EVER. The tour was heavily influenced by images of horses and riding crops. The inspiration was born out of Madonna's riding accident earlier that year when she was thrown and broke her collar bone and several more in her hand. Steven Klein immortalized the concept in a breathtaking spread in W magazine. Her inspiration was undoubtedly Lola Montez - a dancer born in Ireland, who debuted herself in London in 1843 at the age of 25 as Lola Montez - "the Spanish dancer". Her personal life was legendary and to say she was ahead of her time is beyond an understatement. She died at the age of 42 penniless in the Hell's kitchen area of New York. Her look was unique and with "just one look from your eyes"... you can see why Madonna was inspired.

This was also the year she released the fifth in a series of hugely successful children's books. Then, out of nowhere she was thrust into an international political debate on adoption in third world countries when she chose an orphaned boy from Malawi to be her son. Its seems Madonna had crossed paths with the boy during a mission to donate funds to AIDS ravaged Africa. While its exhausting just reading about all she does, to Madonna all I just mentioned was just "last year". That's life in the fast lane when you have so much to do, give and help change.

It is amazing how a suburban childhood life in Michigan can really motivate a girl to shine! Sometimes greatness comes from the least expected places. Just think of those oysters sucking on sand year after year far from the warmth of the sun until one day, they spit out that breathtaking pearl that is forever .... beautiful!

Jason Jobson, Dallas Texas: Last month I spent a FREEZING weekend up in Litchfield County, Connecticut. I was a guest of a friend who has one of those compounds with staff, stables and Style by the acre. The whole area is fabulously chic in an un-hampton’s way. You know the crowd, they don’t chase after the latest "it" bag. In fact, they have more bank than bags. What they do buy is horses. No, actually they have horses bred for them. There are rolling hills of undisturbed country and you usually don’t think about a neighbor unless you get in your car and drive over to see one. I have to say, it is one hell of a place to snuggle up and have a good night’s sleep. It’s also a dream of a place to find antiques and super chic collectibles. One place to spend a few hours browsing and buying is Michael Trapp antiques in West Cornwall…. The owner and shop keep is a most interesting fellow who has created a fantasy world of stone, fountains, and decorating finds – a bit Italian loggia meets Miss Havisham – Great Expectations.

My gracious host planned for us to have dinner at another friends house on Saturday night.  That’s what the Connecticut crowd does. They don’t throw on every piece of new clothing and line up for reservations at one of two hot spots in town to eat. They make plans and invite a small group of people to dinner at their home. Now I must throw in a disclaimer here. I grew up in a poor-cousin version of this Wasp’s nest known as Litchfield County. So it goes without saying that everything should be taken with a grain of salt. The somber serenity of rolling hills can cut like a knife day after day in the grey winter months. The bucolic aesthetic and lock-jaw attitude can be quite stepford like. It’s enough to send a boy running for a 3 day bender in the east village, desperate for a non homogenized experience! On the flip side, living in NYC can also send you running for a long walk on a country road in an L.L. Bean barn jacket and some knee high Wellies! So here I am – Range Rovering from town to town to have dinner with another group of refugees from Manhattan -all of us trying to forget the honking horns, and squealing garbage trucks that are too often embedded in the psyche of New Yorkers. Our dinner host had a cozy place decorated like a big white washed country lodge, with a great room filled with sofa’s and chairs all surrounding a humongous fireplace that crackled and roared with cool spurts of air from the flu. It was a perfect setting for a Winter Saturday night in the country.

The pleasant surprise of the evening was who was seated to my left at dinner -none other than the Queen of celebrity news and Hollywood chatter – Liz Smith. Yes, that Liz Smith, the syndicated columnist who has been reporting scoops on everyone from Liz Taylor & Richard Burton to Jude law & Sienna Miller.

 I was in awe of this legend who was as personable as could be. This is someone who could hide behind her own celebrity – after all she knows EVERYONE.  She had just had lunch the day before with Rupert Everett.  On the contrary, she was friendly and funny and held court all night with stories that had us all laughing and at times gasping! After all, there are things that she just cannot print. Things that are worth gold to a captive audience of New Yorkers who thought they were in the know. Two things struck me the most. First how incredible Ms. Smith looks for her age. She just celebrated her 84th birthday! I’m not one to throw around peoples age, but I saw her on that Michael Eisner show “Conversations” talking about it, so I know she is cool with it. Half the room was half her age, but no one had a quicker wit! The second thing I noticed was her clothes. She was wearing the most beautiful Periwinkle blue leather Jean jacket that you would find on a 40 year old,  and she rocked it! Paired back with a multicolored turtleneck and grey flannel trousers, the leather jacket was a shot of color that hit the spot. It was a great choice that drew her deeper blue eyes out and made them dance as she told story after story. I just had to ask her where she found this keepsake leather piece. I was thinking Armani, or Akris, - maybe Jill Sander… all wrong.

It turns out her entire outfit was all from the Carlisle collection. Doesn’t ring a bell? Well you know the collection, or at least you have seen it. It’s worn year after year by first ladies and Washington wives who have an eye for fashion but who might not have an oil heiress budget to keep them well heeled. It’s also the favorite of those I mentioned above who would rather buy a horse than a shearling from the latest runway show. The collection is only sold through appointments in representatives homes, so you won’t find it in any store. Which does add to the appeal. Fashionable clothes, well made, that don’t cost an arm and a leg, that won’t be seen coming and going all over Madison avenue!

This was the kind of weekend that makes living in New York so special. At any given moment, you have the chance to meet anyone! Liz Smith is an inspiration and a class act. I hope to run into her again, maybe next time in a warmer place!

Diane von Furstenberg is a multi-talented woman whose career has spanned three decades. Most people know that she is a fashion designer, but she has many other gifts that have kept her well rounded and brought her the name recognition she so rightly deserves.

Ms. von Furstenberg began her career selling knit dresses and soon enough designed the wrap dress, which is on display at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. She has always been about being feminine and feeling like a woman and this theme is reflective in all of her collections, beauty and fragrance line and accessories. Ms. Von Furstenberg has authored several books a few that are coffee table books and one memoir and also established a French-language publishing house. She designed Venus William’s Wimbledon dress with Reebok and it is now featured in the Wimbledon Hall of Fame. She has created her own cosmetic line and a fragrance she calls “D.” She has also designed an exclusive fine jewelry line with H. Stern and even has a Barbie Doll in her likeness.

In 2005 she was awarded the CFDA’s Lifetime Achievement Award and a year later was welcomed as CFDA’s President. She entered this role amidst the model weight controversy and I have mentioned in a previous post my disappointment over how she has handled the issue thus far. However, for all that she has accomplished this far, I have no doubt that she will press forward teaching us all a thing or two about the fashion industry, she is after all, an Icon.

Carolina Herrera was born with couture in her blood. While some women have it all, some women have all the talent. Ms. Herrera possesses an elegance that is undefined and that sophistication is streamlined throughout every piece of clothing and product that encompasses her brand.

Ms. Herrera began her fashion business in 1980 with a collection she designed to rave reviews among industry professionals. With the encouragement and support of her family, she moved from Venezuela to New York and formed Carolina Herrera Ltd. at the age of 40; an age that most people would consider too old for beginning a fashion label, but Ms. Herrera has proved them wrong. Her collections projected an elegant simplicity and love for detail. Boutiques and specialty stores began selling her line and it wasn’t too long before Carolina Herrera clothing became in demand by chic fashion enthusiasts who admired her craftsmanship.

In 1988, Ms. Herrera began to expand her brand into beauty when she launched her namesake fragrance. Then in subsequent years she launched Carolina Herrera for Men, Flore, Aqua Flore, 212 Carolina Herrera for Women and 212 for Men. Ms. Herrera also has a bridal line, cosmetics line and accessories line, all of which remain equally as popular as her signature fashion designs.

In 2004 Ms. Herrera received the CFDA’s Women’s Wear Designer of the Year award. One of her 4 daughters, also named Carolina, is also very much involved in the brand and is said to be the inspiration to many of its products. Year after year Ms. Herrera continues to impress us with her glamorous designs and I’m pretty confident that she will take our breath away for years to come.

Spend a "seamless" saturday with the spring collection of fashion savvy graphic designers and graphically sophisticated fashion designers. Examine the pages of the fashion story from the creator's vision to the public eye, from the swatch to sketch, seam to sale, the fifties to the future. Register Here. See the schedule.

SATURDAY 24 MARCH 2007 Florence Gould Auditorium French Institute 55 East 59th Street

In the increasingly commercial world of fashion, few designers are able to remain true to their art while keeping an eye on the bottom line.  Thierry Mugler is a rare exception to this strict fashion rule.  The French designer rocked the runway during the 80's and 90's in Paris.   His unique vision of the world and his Women demanded the attention of editors, buyers, and celebrities everywhere!

Everything he did pushed buttons.  The proportions of his infamous silhouette gave women an hour glass figure regardless if they had one or not!  To be snapped into one of his suit jackets was the modern equivilence of wearing a corset.  The look was so extreme, he was labeled a misogynist by some!

His color palettes were also as strong as the shapes themselves.  Deep purples, firecracker reds, striking yellows - they were all there.  Through it all there was always this underlying sensuality or in actuality - an overt sexuality.   Thierry was not shy about his personal interest in leather, bondage, and the fetish lifestyle.  It was this sense of sexuality pulsing beneath the surface that fueled his image.  His love of the nightlife was also as famous as his collections.   Mugler was one of the trend setters who put South Beach on the map! 

This sensual appeal of Thierry Mugler was also the key to his hugely successful fragrance - Angel.  It quickly became known as the cotton candy - sexy scent.   The only one of its kind to use patchouli and chocolate together.  Over 15 years later, the scent is still a best seller worldwide.   In fact, there are now about a dozen variations bearing the name Angel for men and women.   While many French designers rely on the U.S. market for the bulk of their business, Mugler had already tapped into the middle eastern market years ago.   In countries like Dubai where money flowith over... they love the pungent, intense scent that is unmistakably Angel.  The bottle itself set it apart from any other scent.  The out of this world stellar appearance of a purple comet perfectly matches this mystical scent.

 I was lucky enough to have participated in many of Mugler's projects in the mid - 90's.   I had just graduated from F.I.T. and through some good fortune  -NYC coincidences I landed a job in the New York Showroom.   I'll never forget the first time I went to the space ship in the sky that would become a second home to me.   From the time the elevator opened on the 9th floor above the Paris movie theater, I was out of this world!  You had the sensation you entered into an outer space mother ship.  One that came from a place where women wore black vinyl leggings under short mini skirts and huge guitar pick shaped hats! Many of which were hand made by milliner Philip Tracy. 

The space was a huge open showroom that had one central hallway down the back with offices in a row.  The walls were off white venetian plaster and the carpeting throughout was sky blue - what many refer to as "Mugler" blue.   Six huge white leather sofas flanked the the perimeter of the room.  Small oval Herman Miller tables accompanied each.  I instantly knew I was home!

My experience was magical from that very first day.  With a very small U.S. office I worked on things that I would have never been given a chance at home base in Paris.   We wardrobed a Lenny Kravitz video from start to finish.  We produced the opening segment of the very first Vogue-VH-1 Fashion Music Awards. Live TV no less!! This entailed 20 models all in six inch stilettos winding down spiral stairs like ants.   That night I was introduced to Madonna by Jean Paul Gaultier.  Yes, Gaultier.  It seems that Thierry and Jean Paul shared the same housekeeper and many times I would be giving messages from one to the other.   Needless to say - my head never stopped spinning.

We dressed Jerry Hall, Iman, and Diana Ross to name a few Diva's.  Although to be fair, Diana was always very polite and well mannered.   I became phone buddies with Patty Hearst!  She called almost daily to chat about everything from her fathers lawyers to her little girl Lydia who has grown into quite the little party hound!   Women never said no to Thierry.   He even convinced camera shy Hearst to not only walk the runway in Paris but to do a mock strip tease!

Then there was the fashion show that featured four go-go boys in studded g-strings.  I was in charge of organizing the "talent" to get from L.A., N.Y. and parts unknown (or avoided) to Paris on time!!! Believe me this was no easy feat as many of these talented Hustlers, I mean dancers weren't exactly used to being on time - before 10pm that is!

The cast of characters reached beyond the grave! Sort of...there was infamous New York chanteuse - Joey Arias calling all the time and announcing himself as "Billie Holiday".  This was his alter ego when performing his cabaret act.   It was lost on me as I was 24 and fresh from a sleepy suburb.   That was just a typical phone call at the house of Mugler.  You never knew who would call or stop by or ring us up screaming!  Joey Arias is now headlining the  Cirque du Soleil show in Vegas aptly title Zoomanity.  It's known as the "adult" Cirque show and the entire look of the show was designed by Mugler himself.

It was a wild time those 90's.   I think about it now that the Fall collections saw all this homage to Thierry's unmistakable look.  Balenciaga and Dolce & Gabbana were just two that had strong Mugler influences for Fall.  To say he was ahead of his time is redundant.  His core creative inspiration was always a mix between Barbarella and Star Trek.   Although I can see the references on the runway for Fall,  I have to say that no one did or does it like Thierry.  

The fact that Mugler never changed his look to fuel retail sales is why I respect him so much.  That was the look - take it or leave it!   There was no back and forth and whipping up commercial looks for department stores so they would have a version to sell in Podunk!   This was high Fashion.  You trusted the designers vision and became part of the fantasy.   His sense of integrity would not waiver, even in choosing to let the house close, rather than be a commercial sell-out.  The best part is that in the end, Thierry has had the last laugh.   When skincare giant Clarins bought controlling interest in Angel, he was set for life.   The millions the house never made (or actually lost) on RTW- were more than made up for by the cosmetic monster Angel has become!   I hope rumors are true and Thierry Mugler collection will find its way back on the runway again soon!

Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani is often the name you hear whispered across the red carpet at many Hollywood events. Armani’s designs and accessories are always in demand as they represent understated elegance with a distinct luxurious quality. What began as humble beginnings as a window dresser at La Rinascente, has become a fashion empire that few can rival.

From 1961-1970 he joined Nino Cerruti as a designer and then with the encouragement of his close friend Sergio Galeotti, he left Cerruti to venture out on his own into freelance design work. Within four years he established his own men’s wear label and a year later had one for women as well. Now Armani has established nine labels dabbling into more than just fashion, but cosmetics, accessories, home decor, jewelry, eyewear and watches.

While Armani is best known for his men’s line, it is his adaptation of the same lines and cuts that makes his women’s line increasingly sought after. Armani clothing is known for its precision and easy fit comfortable style.

To say that Marc Jacobs is a talented fashion designer is a complete understatement. The fact that Marc Jacobs operates more than one fashion brand, a men’s wear and women’s wear collection, as well as, a beauty, footwear, eyewear, fashion accessories and a home collection and does it all equally well only begins to describe the natural talent that is Marc Jacobs.

Marc Jacobs has been on the receiving end of the CFDA’s awards six times. Several times for Women’s Designer of the Year, Men’s Designer of the Year, the Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent and Accessories Designer of the Year. Not only has he received these awards from the CFDA, but he has also received many others while studying at the Parsons School of Design in New York City including the Perry Ellis Gold Thimble Award, the Chester Weinberg Gold Thimble Award and the Design Student of the Year Award.

Mr. Jacobs has had a partnership with Robert Duffy for their company Jacobs Duffy Designs Inc. since 1984 that continues to this day. In the late 80’s Jacobs worked for Perry Ellis as Vice President of Women’s Design and less than 10 years later became artistic director for Louis Vuitton, a position he still holds today. Jacobs also has two successful labels of his own; Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs, he also has a children’s collection called Little Marc. 1995 was the year that Jacobs launched his first Men’s Ready to Wear Collection.

Jacobs has countless stores and boutiques stationed around the world making him a household name. His runway shows are always subject to rave reviews and his designs always leave us breathless. There is not one collection that is better than the other and his talent and commitment to high quality and design shine through in everything he does.

There is no crowd more jaded than the fickle fashion industry. Withstanding a constant state of sensory overload - who can blame them for Blase reactions to fashion hopefuls?  After all, collections are launching daily with bigger and fancier launch parties every season. Store buyers and Magazine Editors can develop permanent lip pursing from all the mediocrity - think Miranda Priestley in "The Devil Wears Prada".
This makes the opening of Tom Ford's new boutique on Madison Avenue all the more significant. A private party at the spectacular space on Monday night has Fashion executives as excited as teens who win tickets to the MTV Music Awards! (it was the Gianfranco Ferre space for years)

They all turned out to support Mr. Ford in his next venture in the designer role.

Tom Ford put the F back in Fashion in the mid 90's.  If you don't know what F I'm talking about, you don't have a pulse!   There were no fashion ads sexier than Tom Ford for Gucci.   Mr. Ford has always understood designer fashion at its core.   It is the art of seduction that makes the difference between a pretty collection and one that becomes legend.  Men and Women want one of two things from a designer campaign.   People either want to look like the models in the ads - or sleep with them!  It is as simple as that. 

Never one to be shy about his vision Ford sent shock waves around the world with his direct approach to what was sexy and what inspired him.   It was this maverick sensibility that took Gucci from a sleeping old Italian luggage company and turned it into the  fashion collection of the decade. 

 Hollywood quickly took notice and embraced this hot new designer who looked more like a model or actor than your typical designer.  It was in fact his acting background that allowed him to be so comfortable in his own skin.

One of the first style icons to jump on board was Madonna.   Never one to miss a hot new style on the horizon, she famously wore head to toe Gucci to the 1995 MTV Music Awards.  She uttered the words "Gucci, Gucci, Gucci" when asked what she was wearing.   Tom Ford himself credits her with "starting it all".

Mr. Ford not only changed the look of the collection, he changed the look of the company.   He and his long-time partner Richard Buckley had dreamed of living and working in London.   Suddenly, Tom had the power to make that happen. 

Once Gucci had the clear vision he wanted, the next challenge made itself clear.   Taking the helm at Yves Saint Laurent.   Parent company PPR had taken over the legendary design house and Mr. Ford would re-invent the wheel that was the life-force of the fashion industry during the 60's,70's, and 80's.

The most interesting aspect to this period was when Tom stayed true to his personal ideal of sensuality with the launch of M7.  A musky scent in a sexy brown bottle was sure to be a success.   Except, Mr. Ford insisted on launching the campaign with a portrait of a male model with natural body hair completely nude.   Now chiseled male models nearly naked are nothing new.  However, this was the full monty with penis in full few.   It was beautiful , sexy and refreshing - of course it became banned by publishers in the United States.   It is still one of the best mens fragrances out there.  I have been wearing it since the launch- now I have to find it when traveling in Europe.  

With the new Boutique on Madison Avenue Mr. Ford is sure to give more of the same in terms of his sensual vision of the well dressed man.   A large portion of the collection will be bespoke - or custom order, so don't expect to run in and find anything on sale - ever!

For Boaz David, music and fashion are not two separate entities. Having grown up in Israel with exposure to the British punk rock era, he was inspired by the fashion and imagery of many of his favorite punk groups. He attended the Shenkar School of Fashion in Tel-Aviv and designed wardrobes for both television and theater before moving to New York City in 1996. It was then that Boaz decided to take his love for music and fashion and merge the two together to create his own style of clothing.

The result is a women’s clothing line with a rocker-chic look that has an edgy, yet fashion forward sense of style. The line’s trademark pocket in the shape of a shield, detailed with distressed leather and accents of metal zippers and rivets was inspired by the simple geometric shapes placed on the shields of medieval armor and used to identify individuals and represent their place in society. One could hardly feel ordinary dawning a Boaz blazer or pair of trousers.

Today I had the chance to ask Boaz more about his line and see what he is working on for the future:

Who are some of the fashion designers you have worked for before making the decision to start your own line?

For 10 years I worked in the contemporary market for lines such as Yigal Azrouel when he just started, Nili Lotan when she started and Alice & Trixie (among others).

I love the writing on the trouser legs and the back of the blazers, is this Hebrew and what does it say?

The writings on the pants are indeed in Hebrew. The circle print just says my name in Hebrew, but all the other prints (the one along the right leg, on the back yoke of some of the pants and the jackets) is a sentence from a Jewish morning prayer and it means, "Bless you (God) who dresses the naked." In Hebrew it sounds like, "Baruch Malbish Aroomim."

After years in menswear, fashion designer Emmett McCarthy took an unexpected chance – he completely reinvented his image and parlayed his talents and expert technique into designing womenswear that is as classically chic as it is fashion forward.

Stylistically, Emmett favors clean lines, redefined details, and subtle construction, and finds himself applying this sensibility to the marvelous variety of silhouettes and fabric possibilities for women. Women have so many choices in terms of fashion. Looking beautiful, appropriate and fashionable can pose a challenge. Emmett and his design team strive to make the EMC2 experience a pleasure, whether in person or online. Emmett’s goal is to design pieces that truly make women feel as comfortable as they are confident – that is how Emmett defines luxury.

Emmett’s decision to open a studio boutique immediately rather than seek out other retail outlets, is at the heart of his creative process. He conceived EMC2 as a self-financed retail prototype, wholesale incubator, and creative laboratory where he could innovate the old-fashioned way – one product at a time, face-to-face with his clients.

As a Project Runway (Season Two) alum, Emmett continues to embrace the new roles both reality television and the online communities are forging in fashion. The intersection of mass and new media represents the future of how fashion is discussed and marketed, and is the new model for how brands are born and cultivated.

EMC2
240 Elizabeth Street, NY
www.EmmettMcCarthy.com

Media Contact:
Fashion PR Division: Christina at piercemattie dot com

There are few things more utilitarian as a piece of luggage. We rely on these items time and time again to be the gatekeeper of our valuables on the way to that long awaited vacation - or that very important business trip. Often overlooked until we need them, these tried and true members of our wardrobe are more often treated like annoying step-children. They take up room in our apartments and we want them - only when we need them to make us look good.

The fashion industry found a way to take these items out of the dog house and into a coveted category by adding luxurious details once reserved only for women's handbags. I've written before about the storied history of companies like Louis Vuitton and Tanner Krolle. Brands that had luggage roots that crossed into the fashion world. Another such company is on the move. Few names are more well known worldwide than Samsonite. It is a brand that is reliable and edgy at the same time. The company has always been ahead of the curve in terms of innovation and technology. Founded by an American in 1910 and based in the Western U.S. - the company grew quickly to be a truly global brand.  They were the first suitcases to made from non-leather material that were durable and light weight.

In 1999, the company launched a black label clothing division for Men that instantly put the non-chic brand in every fashion magazine around. There is something modern and streamlined about the brand that looks great without trying too hard. The company has also launched little mini collections of interesting detail. Their Black Label Vintage Collection saw Isabella Rossilini as it's global face - to represent the modern traveler who knows how to live.   The line was small and went nearly un-noticed compared  to the volume
this mega brand moves every year.   However it was a great m