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February 21, 2007

Madonna From H&M Spokesperson To H&M Fashion Designer: A Constant Source of Inspiration

M by Madonna. As if this 48 year old mother of three needs to do one more thing to prove to the world just how talented she is, Madonna has officially added fashion designer to her stable of titles. While a career half as accomplished would satisfy most people, this head strong Leo is always striving for the unknown or more to the point - the unconquered, which deserves respect!

Modonna The Fashion Designer 

Of course Madonna is no stranger to fashion. While some celebrity labels warrant a head scratching, this collaboration was a no brain-er! Her fashion statements have garnered world wide attention for two decades. No women has done more to make us rethink gender roles. Much like icons before her such as Marlene Dietrich and Coco Chanel, Madonna is a creation of her own making. This month in London, British Elle presented her with a Style Icon award to formally acknowledge all she has done for the runway over the years.

Last year her Confessions tour was the highest grossing female concert tour - EVER. The tour was heavily influenced by images of horses and riding crops. The inspiration was born out of Madonna's riding accident earlier that year when she was thrown and broke her collar bone and several more in her hand. Steven Klein immortalized the concept in a breathtaking spread in W magazine. Her inspiration was undoubtedly Lola Montez - a dancer born in Ireland, who debuted herself in London in 1843 at the age of 25 as Lola Montez - "the Spanish dancer". Her personal life was legendary and to say she was ahead of her time is beyond an understatement. She died at the age of 42 penniless in the Hell's kitchen area of New York. Her look was unique and with "just one look from your eyes"... you can see why Madonna was inspired.

This was also the year she released the fifth in a series of hugely successful children's books. Then, out of nowhere she was thrust into an international political debate on adoption in third world countries when she chose an orphaned boy from Malawi to be her son. Its seems Madonna had crossed paths with the boy during a mission to donate funds to AIDS ravaged Africa. While its exhausting just reading about all she does, to Madonna all I just mentioned was just "last year". That's life in the fast lane when you have so much to do, give and help change.

It is amazing how a suburban childhood life in Michigan can really motivate a girl to shine! Sometimes greatness comes from the least expected places. Just think of those oysters sucking on sand year after year far from the warmth of the sun until one day, they spit out that breathtaking pearl that is forever .... beautiful!

February 22, 2007

Oscar Fashion: Which Designer Will Make It Memorable?

The Academy Awards is sometimes considered one of the biggest nights of fashion for the year. It’s a time when a dress can make or break a star’s image and when a sometimes virtually unheard of designer can be launched into the stratosphere. There are Oscar nominees that we know will wow us with their sense of style and who we wait with baited breath to see walk down the Red Carpet, and then there are the ones we know will just crash and burn. Occasionally, there is the celebrity whose notorious history of poor fashion sense surprises us with a winner and then there is that one dress that, guaranteed, will have us talking for years to come.

One such dress that seems to pop up every time you mention the Oscar’s is the black-and-white vintage Valentino dress that Julia Robert’s wore in 2001. When I think of the Academy Awards, this dress always comes to mind. Back in the late 80’s, Cher’s sheer Bob Mackie dress was hailed as gaudy and outrageous, but now it’s being looked upon as fashion forward. Celebrity news shows and websites have already begun to buzz, pondering which designer will get the most mentions on the Red Carpet and who they feel will be the best dressed celebrity.

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Devil in a blue...Jacket. My dinner with the legendary queen of celebrity news and Hollywood chatter, Liz Smith.

Jason Jobson, Dallas Texas: Last month I spent a FREEZING weekend up in Litchfield County, Connecticut. I was a guest of a friend who has one of those compounds with staff, stables and Style by the acre. The whole area is fabulously chic in an un-hampton’s way. You know the crowd, they don’t chase after the latest "it" bag. In fact, they have more bank than bags. What they do buy is horses. No, actually they have horses bred for them. There are rolling hills of undisturbed country and you usually don’t think about a neighbor unless you get in your car and drive over to see one. I have to say, it is one hell of a place to snuggle up and have a good night’s sleep. It’s also a dream of a place to find antiques and super chic collectibles. One place to spend a few hours browsing and buying is Michael Trapp antiques in West Cornwall…. The owner and shop keep is a most interesting fellow who has created a fantasy world of stone, fountains, and decorating finds – a bit Italian loggia meets Miss Havisham – Great Expectations.

My gracious host planned for us to have dinner at another friends house on Saturday night.  That’s what the Connecticut crowd does. They don’t throw on every piece of new clothing and line up for reservations at one of two hot spots in town to eat. They make plans and invite a small group of people to dinner at their home. Now I must throw in a disclaimer here. I grew up in a poor-cousin version of this Wasp’s nest known as Litchfield County. So it goes without saying that everything should be taken with a grain of salt. The somber serenity of rolling hills can cut like a knife day after day in the grey winter months. The bucolic aesthetic and lock-jaw attitude can be quite stepford like. It’s enough to send a boy running for a 3 day bender in the east village, desperate for a non homogenized experience! On the flip side, living in NYC can also send you running for a long walk on a country road in an L.L. Bean barn jacket and some knee high Wellies! So here I am – Range Rovering from town to town to have dinner with another group of refugees from Manhattan -all of us trying to forget the honking horns, and squealing garbage trucks that are too often embedded in the psyche of New Yorkers. Our dinner host had a cozy place decorated like a big white washed country lodge, with a great room filled with sofa’s and chairs all surrounding a humongous fireplace that crackled and roared with cool spurts of air from the flu. It was a perfect setting for a Winter Saturday night in the country.

lizsmithThe pleasant surprise of the evening was who was seated to my left at dinner -none other than the Queen of celebrity news and Hollywood chatter – Liz Smith. Yes, that Liz Smith, the syndicated columnist who has been reporting scoops on everyone from Liz Taylor & Richard Burton to Jude law & Sienna Miller.

 I was in awe of this legend who was as personable as could be. This is someone who could hide behind her own celebrity – after all she knows EVERYONE.  She had just had lunch the day before with Rupert Everett.  On the contrary, she was friendly and funny and held court all night with stories that had us all laughing and at times gasping! After all, there are things that she just cannot print. Things that are worth gold to a captive audience of New Yorkers who thought they were in the know. Two things struck me the most. First how incredible Ms. Smith looks for her age. She just celebrated her 84th birthday! I’m not one to throw around peoples age, but I saw her on that Michael Eisner show “Conversations” talking about it, so I know she is cool with it. Half the room was half her age, but no one had a quicker wit! The second thing I noticed was her clothes. She was wearing the most beautiful Periwinkle blue leather Jean jacket that you would find on a 40 year old,  and she rocked it! Paired back with a multicolored turtleneck and grey flannel trousers, the leather jacket was a shot of color that hit the spot. It was a great choice that drew her deeper blue eyes out and made them dance as she told story after story. I just had to ask her where she found this keepsake leather piece. I was thinking Armani, or Akris, - maybe Jill Sander… all wrong.

It turns out her entire outfit was all from the Carlisle collection. Doesn’t ring a bell? Well you know the collection, or at least you have seen it. It’s worn year after year by first ladies and Washington wives who have an eye for fashion but who might not have an oil heiress budget to keep them well heeled. It’s also the favorite of those I mentioned above who would rather buy a horse than a shearling from the latest runway show. The collection is only sold through appointments in representatives homes, so you won’t find it in any store. Which does add to the appeal. Fashionable clothes, well made, that don’t cost an arm and a leg, that won’t be seen coming and going all over Madison avenue!

This was the kind of weekend that makes living in New York so special. At any given moment, you have the chance to meet anyone! Liz Smith is an inspiration and a class act. I hope to run into her again, maybe next time in a warmer place!

February 23, 2007

Climate Controlled Shoes: Where Technology and Fashion Meet

As we are heading into the warmer months, the biggest complaint about wearing shoes is how uncomfortable they can be to wear when the temperature rises. Now a Chinese company called Guangzhou Tianfu Electronic Company has created several fashionable men's shoes that are meant to look great and feel great at the same time through temperature regulation.

Guangzhou Tianfu Electronic Co. is a professional high-tech enterprise, specializing in developing, manufacturing and marketing electrothermal series products. Their electronic shoe line known as CEO shoes has complementary-symmetry metal-oxide-semiconductor or CMOS chips, which controls temperature at a comfortable level. According to an article on Fibre2Fashion it, "Emits biological energy according to body temperature that helps in normal biological functions, improves endocrine balance, increases metabolism, stimulates cell activity."

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Out Of Touch & Out Of Fashion, Wearing Controversial Diamonds or "Blood Bling" At the Oscars.


Diamonds Celebrity Jewelry While celebrities are honoring their own at the Academy Awards on Sunday, there seems to be a controversial issue brewing and one that appears to be a contradiction when they honor Blood Diamond. As with at the Golden Globes, A-list celebrities walking the red carpet are given gorgeous diamonds to flaunt through the Raise Your Right Hand campaign. Raise Your Right Hand began when the diamond miners in southern Africa felt the pressure from the issues Blood Diamond brought to light. Fearing that the movie will jeopardize their industry, they decided to use some star power to promote their trade. We all know that diamonds play a major role in the fashion of the Oscar’s, but during a time when a movie such as Blood Diamond is the talk of the movie industry, I would think diamonds would be played down being substituted by other gems or even smaller sized diamonds that won’t steal the show, but simply compliment the dress.

Raise Your Right Hand campaign is asking celebrities to wear the large sized diamond rings on their right hands, which coincidentally also happens to be the hand that if raised in Sierra Leone, was the prompt for the Revolutionary United Front to chop off hands. The campaign is also offering $10,000 to each star’s charity as an offer of goodwill. Some are calling this bribery and others feel it is a good way to raise funds for charities in need. The campaign hopes to raise funds and awareness supporting important projects and causes that are vital to the continued prosperity of key diamond-producing nations around the world, particularly southern Africa. At the Golden Globes celebrities such as Beyonce, Jennifer Lopez and Patricia Arquettehtt were seen raising their right hand in pictures to show off their huge baubles. Will we see more of these controversial Diamond for Africa rings at the Oscars? What do you think about this campaign?

February 24, 2007

Insolia: Wearing High Heels Can Now be Pain-Free

Sometimes it does take a rocket scientist…at least it did in the invention of Insolia, shoe inserts that were invented to distribute weight evenly when wearing high heels. With the help of a MIT-trained Rocket Scientist, Dr. Howard Dananberg a podiatrist, invented Insolia to help those of us who love our heels but hate the pain.

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Insolia insoles are plastic inserts that are barely noticeable to your feet, until you realize that you are no longer wincing in pain while running around the city in your 3-inch heels. They work by preventing your foot from sliding down to the front of your shoe, which puts all of your weight on the balls of your feet. Insolia’s inserts create a 50/50 weight distribution between the balls of your feet and your heel. The result enables better ankle stability and gives you the feeling of wearing flats. Even DKNY and Ipanema are in love with the idea and have begun creating their shoes with Insolia built into their design.

This is definitely a product I could’ve used while in the city last July wearing my 3-inch espadrilles walking through Manhattan and up and down those subway stairs. By the end of the day I was in so much pain that I was ready to walk barefoot through the city. As I am only days away from being back in Manhattan again, I purchased 1-inch heels as to not make the same mistake of unbelievable pain to my feet. Certainly a product such as Insolia is one that sounds perfect no matter where you live and can open the doors to many who so desperately want to wear those fabulous heels in style and not in pain.

February 26, 2007

Enrobing the production in style and glamor, ABC puts the magic back in Oscar show!

The 79th annual academy awards was televised last night on ABC. From start to finish it was a big 3 hour breath of fresh air! The network made Hollywood glam look as easy as A-B-C! I felt like I was dreaming when the red carpet pre-oscar show began. It was glamorous, faced paced and Sophisticated! Chris Connelly and Lisa Ling kept the pace running smoothly. A brilliant use of captions below the stars told us what they were wearing. What a concept! The actors could actually speak and talk about their art instead of the canned “who are you wearing???”. GWYNETH PALTROW wears a Zac Posen gown, KATE WINSLET in Valentino and Chopard jewelry, CATE BLANCHETT in Giorgio Armani Privé - a silver one-shoulder Swarovski crystal mesh gown with tulle overlay and jet black paillette floral motif, PENELOPE CRUZ dazzles in a strapless Versace gown and Chopard jewels, plus Daniel Swarovski clutch, JENNIFER LOPEZ wears a Marchesa gown with Lorraine Schwartz jewelry, REESE WITHERSPOON in Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci with jewels from Van Cleef & Arpels, HELEN MIRREN is in a Christian Lacroix gown with Chopard jewels, BEYONCÉ in Giorgio Armani Privé. The whole idea reminded me of Hollywood from days gone by. Instead of feeling like we were watching one big commercial, we felt like we were watching stars shine "broadway" style.

I thought of the times I watched the oscars on the living room floor of my grandmother’s house when I was 10. My cousins and I would line up stretched out on our stomachs across the rug. Our scrunched up fists holding up our heads would go numb as the Hollywood royalty dazzled us. Grandma’s house was in a suburb close to New York City, but it felt like it was light years away from that magical place called Hollywood! I had that same feeling watching the 79th annual academy awards. The fashion was a major part of the show. Glamour was definitely back. There were no swans or ballerina tutu’s on the red carpet. The industry was represented as well in the pre-oscar show by Vogue Editor at Large , Andre Leon Talley. Its was great to see him tone down his fabulousness and be the true professional he is. It was also great to see him looking so dapper in men’s clothes. You almost forget sometimes. (Trust me, if you have ever been in his office you’d know what I’m talking about.)

Ellen Degeneres was a perfect host. She has the kind of demeanor that makes you smile the moment she takes the stage. It is a sense of trust we all have with her because we know she won’t lead us astray. Her humor is good natured and friendly. Wearing one of her famous pant suit looks she made the whole idea cool with white shoes and an open collar shirt. The comedian is a big fan of Victor & Rolf , Gucci, & Dolce &Gabbana. Ellen also pointed out just how diverse the nominees were this year. The amount of Mexican nominees was unprecedented. It really reminds us what an amazing time we live in. Our generation is one where farm girls become super models, Out and Proud lesbians can host Talk shows, and Marky Mark can be nominated for an Oscar! To say that you can achieve anything if you try hard enough is an understatement.

One stand out style star was newcomer Jennifer Hudson. She was blessed by two Oscars this night! Her Oscar de la Renta ensemble was elegant with its fitted silver python shrug jacket over a long brown satin gown ruched just right to showcase her curvaceous shape. We saw footage of Jennifer as she met with the designer for their fitting in his atelier in New York. That is what makes Oscar such a class act – (the designer that is, not the award) - he knows how to do things right! He is always there with his signature suit and tie with a smile from ear to ear! Jennifer looked amazing and how exciting to have launched her career in such a dazzling way! Nicole Kidman was the lady in Red in a Balenciaga halter dress. Its was pretty, but the red was not so flattering for her porcelain complexion. Gwyneth Paltrow was able to salvage the reputation on the red carpet. She shined in a sheer apricot Zac Posen dress. No-one can forget how her cleavage fell flat in that pink Ralph Lauren gown on her big Oscar night a few years back.

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Visit the oscars comprehensive website for hours of video footage, historic facts, road to the oscars series, past oscar fashion info, the tank you camera, artwork and more. The website is truly the best place for anything oscars!.

 
Achievement in Costume Design deservedly went to Milena Canonerofor her superb vision of Sophia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette! This industry veteran has been nominated eight times for her inspiring creations. The award was a perfect metaphor for such a romantic evening. See you at the movies.
  • Best Picture - The Departed
  • Best Director  - Martin Scorsese - The Departed
  • Best Actor - Forest Whitaker - The Last King of Scotland
  • Best Actress  - Helen Mirren - The Queen
  • Best Supporting Actor - Alan Arkin - Little Miss Sunshine
  • Best Supporting Actress – Jennifer Hudson - Dream Girls
  • Best Foreign Film - The Lives of Others

Gap Inc.: Losing Forth & Towne and Keeping Their Focus Squarely On Old Navy & Gap

Remember when I said I was predicting a strong come back for Gap? It definitely appears that a lot is going on company-wide to make this prediction true. Gap Inc. announced today that they were closing their Forth & Towne brand, meanwhile last Friday they hired Michael Cape as head of Old Navy marketing. Gap Inc. has stated that from here on out, their focus is bringing back to life their Gap and Old Navy brands.

Forth & Towne, Gap Inc.’s 18-month old brand is one I had never heard of until today. They have only 19 stores in 10 US cities spread among 6 states and I have never seen any print or commercial advertisements for the brand. Looking through the site today, I am surprised that this line of chic clothing hasn’t taken off in terms of fashion. It is definitely in the ranks of Banana Republic high-end style. However, you can’t make a brand succeed with a good marketing plan in place. Gap Inc. has decided to lose the brand stating that it had no “long term potential.” Without the ability to purchase online and that the brand was a relative unknown in the other 44 states would definitely give any brand an uphill challenge, especially at a time when Gap Inc. was failing in every corner of their business.

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February 28, 2007

Top Fashion Model Spotlight: Gisele Bundchen

We all noticed Leonardo DiCaprio with his mother on his arm at the Oscar’s while many of us miss Gisele by his side (although Tom Brady is not complaining). How much do you know about this gorgeous supermodel that is in the Guinness World Book of Records for being the richest supermodel to date with an estimated value of $150 million? She may be stunning, but there is a lot more to this model than meets the eye.

Gisele began as a model with Elite Model Management, but like Naomi Campbell did recently, she jumped ship and joined the ranks of IMG. Modeling has been good to her bringing her a reported $7000 an hour and covering campaigns such as Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Chloe, Louis Vuitton and obviously the one we all know her best for: Victoria’s Secret. Combined, she has literally hundreds of campaigns, magazine covers, fashion shows and editorials to her resume.

Dipping her toes into acting, just this past year we saw her in Apple’s Mac advertisement, on The O.C. and in The Devil Wears Prada. Prior to The Devil Wears Prada, she was also in the movie Taxi in 2004. Gisele also has a shoe line with Grendene through the Ipanema brand called Ipanema Gisele Bundchen. She also owns a hotel in Brazil called Palladium Executive.

Can this fabulous model do anything more? She is impressive with what she has been able to accomplish (over 400 magazine covers) since she was discovered approximately 13 years ago…in a McDonald’s no less.

March 1, 2007

It’s A Cinch! Wide Belts Give You A Thinner Appearance

I’ve been around long enough to watch trends come and go and then come back again. I can vividly remember wearing my favorite electric blue stretch jeans, vertically striped white and blue shirt with my wide electric blue belt over top my shirt on an 8th grade trip to Washington DC, the year was 1988. Now here we are again, loving wide belts, but this time with a little more fashion sense (no more electric blue for me). The thing I love about wide belts is how it can give you the appearance of a thinner frame. By wearing it just below the ribcage, creating that hourglass look, it is a look that anyone can pull off. What girl doesn’t want a flattering figure? If it can be faked with a wide belt, all the better. Wide belts vary from plain to embellished and can add more pizzazz to your wardrobe. They can be used to dress up an otherwise lackluster shirtdress or they can add contrast to the color of your shirt, wide belts are functional yet a versatile accessory this season.  If you were around when wide belts were in style in the late 80’s, are you welcoming them back into your wardrobe?

March 2, 2007

Paris Fashion: Pump Up The Volume

Posted From Paris - March 2nd. Things have always been known to be bigger in the U.S. Europeans talk about the dreamy big sky country of the Western United States. They are amazed by our big cities, shocked by our big food portions, and repulsed by our big asses! This week in Paris however, we saw designers were thinking bigger is better!. Volume was all over the runways by those trend setting designers and the keepers at the gate of the large fashion empires.  Three that stood out are:

yslYves Saint Laurent - Stefano Pilati has had a bumpy road in his first few seasons out of the gate at YSL. Some say he is too much of a departure from the Yves look, and some just want reference to the master. For fall Mr. Pilati was all about less structure and volumous cocoon shapes. The sleek styling brought attention to clean lines free of needless detail - something he has been criticized for in the past. The collection was modern and chic. Wearable, yet editorial - which is no easy task. Its seems Mr. Pilati is finding his groove at the helm of YSL for sure.

Stella McCartney - Oversized proportions are nothing new forstella Stella. She has developed a look for herself with chunky knits. They always have an edge with color or print, but look like you could curl up by the fire with a good book - or at least the latest issue of Vogue. While it was her Saville Row tailoring that put her on the map, it is her more athletic designs that have proved to be commercially successful for her. It is her sportiest looks that girls collect season after season. With swing coats, and jackets she gave them something to get in line for this fall. The perfect things to wear over her active collection from Adidas. Season after season the house known for trainers sell out of her high design "gym clothes". Giving the old saying about ADIDAS a twist - All Day I Dream About Stella!!

 

chanelChanel - When Karl Lagerfeld says SEW - the Chanel atelier says "how fast?" - and when Karl said SNOW - Chanel made that happen too! Thats right. It snowed Friday morning in Paris, but only under the glass dome of the Grande Palais. Mr. Lagerfeld showed his Fall RTW collection under a "sky" of giant white tissue clouds. The runway was a large "frozen" lake covered in snow. His ice princess' made their way around the rink in knee high boots in white and black leather. It was the 1870's meets the 1970's as long coats in deep aubergine were cinched with bright white belts and draped with big tweed bags embellished with charms, charms and more charms. Turqoise was all around - from shoes to bags. The gigantic chest plate necklaces made you somehow think African - while the pixie like models with their crimped hair were more Austrian! While Michel Gaubert remixed David Bowie and we heard snippets singing "pressure", it was the girls who looked pressured not to have a wipe out as they tried to make 6 inch stiletto's on "ice" look easy.  We even saw one pair of golden ice skates draped over one girls shoulders- knowing Karl, it could have been a new take on an evening clutch! With KL the sky is the limit! Maybe he was also dreaming of that big sky country out west - just at the finale - the paper clouds started to move and the entire room was bathed in little paper snow flakes.   It was a beautiful site- and a total fashion moment.   After all, what could be more exclusive than having Chanel snow in your hair or on your person as you had lunch afterwards at L'Avenue.   The Avenue Montaigne restaurant was the place to be after the show and the snow!

 

Fashion Designer Spotlight: Diane von Furstenberg

dvfDiane von Furstenberg is a multi-talented woman whose career has spanned three decades. Most people know that she is a fashion designer, but she has many other gifts that have kept her well rounded and brought her the name recognition she so rightly deserves.

Ms. von Furstenberg began her career selling knit dresses and soon enough designed the wrap dress, which is on display at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. She has always been about being feminine and feeling like a woman and this theme is reflective in all of her collections, beauty and fragrance line and accessories. Ms. Von Furstenberg has authored several books a few that are coffee table books and one memoir and also established a French-language publishing house. She designed Venus William’s Wimbledon dress with Reebok and it is now featured in the Wimbledon Hall of Fame. She has created her own cosmetic line and a fragrance she calls “D.” She has also designed an exclusive fine jewelry line with H. Stern and even has a Barbie Doll in her likeness.

In 2005 she was awarded the CFDA’s Lifetime Achievement Award and a year later was welcomed as CFDA’s President. She entered this role amidst the model weight controversy and I have mentioned in a previous post my disappointment over how she has handled the issue thus far. However, for all that she has accomplished this far, I have no doubt that she will press forward teaching us all a thing or two about the fashion industry, she is after all, an Icon.

March 5, 2007

Chloe, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu & Nina Ricci: Reviews on Their Paris RTW Runway Collections

Louis Vuitton

Sarah Mower, Style.com The show felt a bit all over the place, but never mind: A lot of the women in the audience declared that, once the elements are merchandised for stores, they'll be going shopping.

Fashion Week Daily The show's cheeky title, "Girl with a Monogram Handbag," summed up all the season's components in one tidy tagline.

WWD The famed Dutchman’s canvases inspired Jacobs’ fall show for Louis Vuitton, making for a lovely though surprisingly low-key collection.

Miu Miu

Nicole Phelps, Style.com Despite all the (matron-meets-) porn-star allusions, this wasn't a sexy collection. And it won't necessarily be easy to wear, either. But in her characteristically thoughtful style, Prada has given everyone plenty to ponder on their long plane ride home.

Godfrey Deeny, Fashion Wire Daily Fashion’s most influential designer Miuccia Prada had her tongue planted firmly in her cheek in a collection that played girlishly with volume and jokingly repeated silhouette’s and outfits in the second half of the show, but in transparent gauze and gazzar.

WWD Still exuding a certain lofty Prada quirkiness, these pieces are bound to have more street legs than those gargantuan molded separates.

Nina Ricci

Sarah Mower, Style.com Theyskens laid on an irresistible finale of trail-y, ragged-edged white and chartreuse fantasy gowns, but still, the question about where he intends to take Ricci was left in the air.

Fashion Week Daily With wavy feather tendrils floating from the clothes and hair down on alien ducklings, what might have registered as sterile futurism in that stark, otherworldly sea of grey and white instead came off as divine newness.

WWD Olivier Theyskens made a gentle return to the runway, one that was as breathtakingly beautiful as it was serene.

Chloe

Sarah Mower, Style.com The show had energy, but it's too early to judge how any newcomer will make his mark based on one collection (it took quite a few seasons for Philo to climb to the ranks of cult leader, after all). For now, the pertinent question is whether Melim Andersson gets the fact that Chloé has to be an easily broken down assemblage of fab pieces that fly out of shops. Reactions were split over that.

Fashion Week Daily Chloe's runway show played out as something of a hardcore curiosity shop. The new girl, under the helm of Paulo Melim Andersson, displayed a taste for the punky alongside the pretty, piling on zippers with equal fervor as mirrored embellishments, enjoying her lollipop-like abstract flower prints as well as her cherry-red platform combat boots.

Godfrey Deeny, Fashion Wire Daily The collection opened slowly - a navy blue open backed dress worn with improbable bright red Doc Martens-style platforms that did not exactly wow. Like the overly bombastic soundtrack – its mood swung from industrial to piano doodling – the footwear was hit and miss, but one third way through, Paulo suddenly found his groove.

March 6, 2007

Shoes: My Fashion Obsession

Ever since I can remember, I have had an obsession with shoes. It is the one fashion accessory that I am extremely picky about. I’ll never forget the day that I had saved enough babysitting money as a teenager, to purchase a pair of Kenneth Cole sandals. I wore them every day, but unfortunately they met their demise a year later when I got a puppy that decided my beloved sandals would make for a good chew toy.

To me, my shoes are a way of self-expression. I wear a particular style dependent upon my mood and how I want to express myself each day. Something about shoes makes me feel a certain way. If my shoes look good, it instills a certain amount of confidence in the way I walk. When I am out and about, I always want people to notice my shoes. For me, my shoes are an art form.

Prior to having children, my closet has been known to hold up to 25 (or maybe more) pairs of shoes. My husband has never understood my obsession and many times laughs at my preference of style over functionality. He often says that I do not wear “sensible shoes,” which he realized on our honeymoon as I climbed a snowy hill to go tubing in 3-inch heeled boots (and yes I probably fell about a dozen times wearing them).

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March 7, 2007

Old Navy: High Fashion From The Runway For Everyone!

Fashionista’s everywhere pay attention to the runway for the upcoming trends each season. Imagine my surprise when those trends are now showing up in Old Navy stores everywhere. It’s no secret to anyone who reads this blog and our main blog; I adore Old Navy and have for a long while. I’m definitely their cheerleader when it comes to reviving their brand (and Gap Inc. overall). From the looks of their latest commercial for their Spring dresses, it looks like that revival is here much sooner than we expected.

A few weeks ago I posted the top ten trends for Spring. The biggest trend obviously being dresses, but also the eyelet and above the knee hemlines, and while not on their list, baby dolls are popping up everywhere. I was sitting in my living room when the newest Old Navy commercial played and I couldn’t contain my excitement over their newest line of dresses. I’m not alone; Carleen Pruess from Beauty and Fashion Tech felt the same way:

“The other night the commercial came on and my boyfriend asked what it was for (he missed the intro), he was surprised when I immediately said 'Old Navy.' I hadn't really thought of Old Navy as a source for dresses in the past, but the ones in the commercial are cute and just the type of summer dress I like. I'm a sucker for sundresses and Old Navy prices sure can't be beat! I particularly like the halter dress in the commercial. It looks like I will be going shopping there soon.”

Other fashion Bloggers feel similar...

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March 8, 2007

Helmut Lang Fashion Collection Now Available At Scoop

Scoop, as you know, just opened their Mega Scoop store on Broadway a few weeks ago. Already bursting at the seams with great fashion designers and brands like Marc Jacobs, Diane von Furstenberg and 7 For All Mankind, Scoop has added yet another fashion iconic label to their list of brands: Helmut Lang.

Here in the states, Helmut Lang has been sold mostly in Barney’s stores and specific high-end retail boutiques. While Lang is no longer involved with his brand (it is owned by Link Theory), the designs overseen by creative directors Michael and Nicole Colovos (who previously owned Habitual, which is also sold at Scoop) have been receiving favorable reviews despite their slight dissention from the brand’s identity.

Scoop NYC will be carrying Lang’s sportswear collection for Spring and Summer 07. Make sure to also check out their fabulous Look Book when on their website.

March 9, 2007

Top Fashion Designer Spotlight: Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera was born with couture in her blood. While some women have it all, some women have all the talent. Ms. Herrera possesses an elegance that is undefined and that sophistication is streamlined throughout every piece of clothing and product that encompasses her brand.

Ms. Herrera began her fashion business in 1980 with a collection she designed to rave reviews among industry professionals. With the encouragement and support of her family, she moved from Venezuela to New York and formed Carolina Herrera Ltd. at the age of 40; an age that most people would consider too old for beginning a fashion label, but Ms. Herrera has proved them wrong. Her collections projected an elegant simplicity and love for detail. Boutiques and specialty stores began selling her line and it wasn’t too long before Carolina Herrera clothing became in demand by chic fashion enthusiasts who admired her craftsmanship.

In 1988, Ms. Herrera began to expand her brand into beauty when she launched her namesake fragrance. Then in subsequent years she launched Carolina Herrera for Men, Flore, Aqua Flore, 212 Carolina Herrera for Women and 212 for Men. Ms. Herrera also has a bridal line, cosmetics line and accessories line, all of which remain equally as popular as her signature fashion designs.

In 2004 Ms. Herrera received the CFDA’s Women’s Wear Designer of the Year award. One of her 4 daughters, also named Carolina, is also very much involved in the brand and is said to be the inspiration to many of its products. Year after year Ms. Herrera continues to impress us with her glamorous designs and I’m pretty confident that she will take our breath away for years to come.

March 12, 2007

Stella McCartney Fashion Collection At Target Australia Evokes Fashionista Chaos

Today was the big day in Australia for Target to launch Stella McCartney’s limited edition collection of clothing. Australian fashionista’s camped outside of Target like Americans on Black Friday eagerly awaiting the doors to open so they could snatch every piece of clothing possible. Many duked it out grabbing clothing from one another while others stripped the mannequins bare. Some kept the clothing for themselves and others quickly posted them to ebay since the collection is not available in any other country.

Stella McCartney’s Target line includes 42 pieces with none going over the $200 mark. This makes for those who love McCartney’s designs, but have to keep budget-minded, the ability to “dress for less.” McCartney’s idea to create this affordable line is to bring her brand to fashion lovers throughout Australia without discriminating monetarily. Once introduced to the brand and the limited edition collection has run its course, McCartney most likely hopes that these fashion enthusiasts will continue to remain loyal to her brand.

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March 13, 2007

Paris Fashion Week & French Cuisine -Minus The Fashion, Minus The Scene!

One of the highlights of any trip to Paris has to be the food. From simple brasseries to high-styled theme restaurants, the French know how to prepare a dish! If you are in the fashion crowd, then you no- doubt hit the usual suspects. You know, the Hotel Costes on Faubourg St. honore, Cafe De Flore on Blvd St. Germain, Dave on Rue Richelieu. One is trendy, one is legendary, and the third a hybrid: one part ok food - one part major attitude. 

First time travelers by all means - hit the Hotel Costes.   You might run into Kate Moss or Valentino, if not you will for sure see the most concentration of the beautiful people in Paris.   When I say the beautiful people, of course I mean the over accessorized, over dressed - yet under dressed fashion crowd.

Hotel Costes

If you are a die-hard New Yorker with a craving for Chinese, then ask your concierge to get you a reservation at Dave.  Its on Rue Richelieu and to say it is a scene is an understatement.   It is a year round destination  for artists, writers, rock stars, you name it.   During fashion week however, it is invaded by retailers and design house expats.   If you score a table in the main room that you know one of three things :
1.  you are staying at a VERY good hotel.  2. you work for a Major fashion house 0r 3.  you are drop dead gorgeous and Dave could not resist your look - male or female. 

There is an over the top spiral staircase that leads to the second floor, which can either mean you are being exiled, or you are having an affair and need some privacy.  The French are excellent in this area of diplomacy.  One night I thought I was the victim of the first scenario as Dave lead me and my dinner partner up the staircase.  Then I remembered I was smack dab in the middle of the second scenario!


If however, you have been to Paris and you know the drill at the 3 or 4 must see places and your tired of the velvet rope mentality - then I have a few suggestions:

Maison de L'Aubrac

This restaurant is named after the region in central France that is also the breed of their famous cattle. It is known for its lean, delicious cuts of beef.  However, Maison Aubrac is also a lively place to have a meal low in carbs and high in taste and character.  Most dishes are accompanied by simple vegetables like Haricot Vere, also known in NY as Haricot Vere - and for those Americans not on a coast - Green Beans. The decor is campy as it pays homage to its mountainous namesake region.  The country lodge feeling is a great departure from the typical Parisian decor.   Knotty Chestnut is all around - picket fence style from floor to ceiling!   Decorators take note: that wood costs you a small fortune this side of the Atlantic!  Chestnut is in abundance in France and has similar repellent properties to bugs as cedar.  True Parisians all know this spot also as one of the only places open 24/7.  The prices are reasonable and the staff is friendly.   On my last visit I was able to get a table without a reservation, and only after waiting about 5 minutes.

Chez Omar

North of Les Halles on the Rue de Bretagne this non-scene scene needs a bit of a disclaimer.   It is extremely popular with the fashion crowd.  However, it is the fashion crowd that cut their teeth on Stephen Sprouse and Thierry Mugler.   It's not the Jessica Simpson wannabe, Marquee club attending set that passes themselves off for fashion people nowadays.  Think Barneys vs. Bergdorf's.

Its all about the Cous Cous. Huge plates of Cous Cous and large terines of delicious stewed vegetables that hit the spot when ladled over skewers of tender lamb or beef kabobs.   Actually, it has to be all about the cous cous because the place is a dump.   It's a wonderful dump that makes the ramshackle details very authentic.  It is all original, even down to the zinc top bar that lines the far side of the restaurant.  Yes Omar is there holding court and you will wait for a table.   The waiters are as French as they come.  They tell you were you will sit and dont' try to ask for a certain open table - they assign you one like a fortune teller!  It is a who's who of fashion insiders.  Yes, you might see Mark Jacobs in that corner and Alber Albaz in that corner - that's just another night at Omar.  Summing it up, go for the food and be pleasantly surprised by the crowd, not the other way round.

A friend of mine who is a native Parisian recently called to reserve a table.  The conversation went like this:

Parisian:  Hi, are you taking reservations for tonight?

Omar:  Well, it depends.  You really don't need a reservation.

Parisian:  Oh, ok well then I would be able to have a table around 9

Omar:  well, at 7 there is no one here and you don't need a reservation.  After 9 it is crowded and you need a reservation.

Parisian:  oh, well then I'd like to make a reservation because I would like to come at 9.

Omar:  Well, we really don't take reservations.

Vive la difference!!

Cafe Chez Rosito

Now this one is a real treat!  None of your friends have been there, and they have never heard of it!  Just steps off the Place des Vosges this restaurant is a breath of fresh air from any uptight French restaurant.

It's a tiny little place run by a husband and wife from Corsica.  Now if you know anything about Corsica, you know it is not typically French in any way.  Corsicans are to France what Sicilians are to Italy.  Different to say the least.   The Corsicans however have a history of blowing up bombs during demonstrations of their desire to succeed from France!  They are one kooky bunch!

Cafe Rosito has that spirit of anarchy in everything... from the country decor of tiny dining room to Mrs. Rosito's own wiry hair style.  Everything has this whatever sensibility that puts you at ease and lets you relax.  

The menu is a mix of everything.  I had pasta with a spicy meat sauce, while my friends had beef and seafood - all excellent!  The prices were easy and if the Rosito's are in a good mood, so is the service.

After a long week of fashion shows where everyone is trying to achieve perfection , this little detour was just perfect for me!

If you are headed to Paris, check out one of the three I mentioned and let me know what you think!  Bon Appetit !! 

March 14, 2007

Event: Fashion Meets Graphic Design, Body/Language

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Spend a "seamless" saturday with the spring collection of fashion savvy graphic designers and graphically sophisticated fashion designers. Examine the pages of the fashion story from the creator's vision to the public eye, from the swatch to sketch, seam to sale, the fifties to the future. Register Here. See the schedule.

SATURDAY 24 MARCH 2007 Florence Gould Auditorium French Institute 55 East 59th Street

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Top Model Spotlight: Heidi Klum, The Ultimate Supermodel.

Heidi Klum’s modeling career began when her friend persuaded her in 1991, then only 18, to enter into a national modeling contest called “Model 92.” A year later she wins the contest, only to pass it up for finishing school. A month later school is finished and she begins studying to be a Fashion Designer. In the summer of that year she decides to give up Fashion Design to pursue her modeling career and lands her first real job. In 1993 she comes to the US for a modeling job and decides to take up residence in Manhattan, she has resided there ever since.

In 1997 she began her career with Victoria’s Secret and makes her first runway appearance. In that same year, she becomes engaged and remains married until 2003. By 1998 she becomes the first German model to grace the cover of Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue and soon recognized as an international top model. In the next few years that followed she made her acting debut on Spin City as Michael J. Fox’s love interest, her first calendar is published, she makes her movie debut in Blow Dry, sings a tune at MTV’s Fashionably Loud and continues to rock the world with her images splashed on the covers of Vogue, ELLE, Marie Claire among many others.

In 2004 she became the host of the successful Bravo reality show Project Runway and soon after became the host for Germany’s Next Top Model which is co-produced by Tyra Banks. Klum has designed shoes for Birkenstock, produced two fragrances and designed jewelry for Mouawad. She is an accomplished painter and has had some of her work debut in art magazines here within the United States. Within the last few years she has put out a single called “Wonderland” which was intended for a series of commercials for the German retailer, “Douglas.” She has had a stamp in Germany in her honor and a rose named after her.

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March 15, 2007

Message From Jason Jobson: Infrequent Posts This Week On The Fashion Rag.

For those frequent readers of Jason Jobson's posts, Jason has been on a plane almost every day this week, he emailed me saying he had a great time in Europe and now was jumping all over the states and had a hard time blogging. He promised to get some more posts up in the near future.

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I'm having a hell of a week... I'm in Chicago.. waiting for a connection to Pittsburgh.. this morning I was in St. Louis.. yesterday Indianapolis...and everyone thinks my so called "glamorous life" is in LA, NY, and Paris!

The Devil of French Fashion smells like an Angel!

In the increasingly commercial world of fashion, few designers are able to remain true to their art while keeping an eye on the bottom line.  Thierry Mugler is a rare exception to this strict fashion rule.  The French designer rocked the runway during the 80's and 90's in Paris.   His unique vision of the world and his Women demanded the attention of editors, buyers, and celebrities everywhere!

muglerEverything he did pushed buttons.  The proportions of his infamous silhouette gave women an hour glass figure regardless if they had one or not!  To be snapped into one of his suit jackets was the modern equivilence of wearing a corset.  The look was so extreme, he was labeled a misogynist by some!

His color palettes were also as strong as the shapes themselves.  Deep purples, firecracker reds, striking yellows - they were all there.  Through it all there was always this underlying sensuality or in actuality - an overt sexuality.   Thierry was not shy about his personal interest in leather, bondage, and the fetish lifestyle.  It was this sense of sexuality pulsing beneath the surface that fueled his image.  His love of the nightlife was also as famous as his collections.   Mugler was one of the trend setters who put South Beach on the map! 

 

This sensual appeal of Thierry Mugler was also the key to his hugely successful fragrance - Angel.  It quickly became known as the cotton candy - sexy scent.   The only one of its kind to use patchouli and chocolate together.  Over 15 years later, the scent is still a best seller worldwide.   In fact, there are now about a dozen variations bearing the name Angel for men and women.   While many French designers rely on the U.S. market for the bulk of their business, Mugler had already tapped into the middle eastern market years ago.   In countries like Dubai where money flowith over... they love the pungent, intense scent that is unmistakably Angel.  The bottle itself set it apart from any other scent. angel The out of this world stellar appearance of a purple comet perfectly matches this mystical scent.

 

 I was lucky enough to have participated in many of Mugler's projects in the mid - 90's.   I had just graduated from F.I.T. and through some good fortune  -NYC coincidences I landed a job in the New York Showroom.   I'll never forget the first time I went to the space ship in the sky that would become a second home to me.   From the time the elevator opened on the 9th floor above the Paris movie theater, I was out of this world!  You had the sensation you entered into an outer space mother ship.  One that came from a place where women wore black vinyl leggings under short mini skirts and huge guitar pick shaped hats! Many of which were hand made by milliner Philip Tracy

The space was a huge open showroom that had one central hallway down the back with offices in a row.  The walls were off white venetian plaster and the carpeting throughout was sky blue - what many refer to as "Mugler" blue.   Six huge white leather sofas flanked the the perimeter of the room.  Small oval Herman Miller tables accompanied each.  I instantly knew I was home!

My experience was magical from that very first day.  With a very small U.S. office I worked on things that I would have never been given a chance at home base in Paris.   We wardrobed a Lenny Kravitz video from start to finish.  We produced the opening segment of the very first Vogue-VH-1 Fashion Music Awards. Live TV no less!! This entailed 20 models all in six inch stilettos winding down spiral stairs like ants.   That night I was introduced to Madonna by Jean Paul Gaultier.  Yes, Gaultier.  It seems that Thierry and Jean Paul shared the same housekeeper and many times I would be giving messages from one to the other.   Needless to say - my head never stopped spinning.

We dressed Jerry Hall, Iman, and Diana Ross to name a few Diva's.  Although to be fair, Diana was always very polite and well mannered.   I became phone buddies with Patty Hearst!  She called almost daily to chat about everything from her fathers lawyers to her little girl Lydia who has grown into quite the little party hound!   Women never said no to Thierry.   He even convinced camera shy Hearst to not only walk the runway in Paris but to do a mock strip tease!

Then there was the fashion show that featured four go-go boys in studded g-strings.  I was in charge of organizing the "talent" to get from L.A., N.Y. and parts unknown (or avoided) to Paris on time!!! Believe me this was no easy feat as many of these talented Hustlers, I mean dancers weren't exactly used to being on time - before 10pm that is!

The cast of characters reached beyond the grave! Sort of...there was infamous New York chanteuse - Joey Arias calling all the time and announcing himself as "Billie Holiday".  This was his alter ego when performing his cabaret act.   It was lost on me as I was 24 and fresh from a sleepy suburb.   That was just a typical phone call at the house of Mugler.  You never knew who would call or stop by or ring us up screaming!  Joey Arias is now headlining the  Cirque du Soleil show in Vegas aptly title Zoomanity.  It's known as the "adult" Cirque show and the entire look of the show was designed by Mugler himself.joey

It was a wild time those 90's.   I think about it now that the Fall collections saw all this homage to Thierry's unmistakable look.  Balenciaga and Dolce & Gabbana were just two that had strong Mugler influences for Fall. balenciaga To say he was ahead of his time is redundant.  His core creative inspiration was always a mix between Barbarella and Star Trek.   Although I can see the references on the runway for Fall,  I have to say that no one did or does it like Thierry.  dolce

The fact that Mugler never changed his look to fuel retail sales is why I respect him so much.  That was the look - take it or leave it!   There was no back and forth and whipping up commercial looks for department stores so they would have a version to sell in Podunk!   This was high Fashion.  You trusted the designers vision and became part of the fantasy.   His sense of integrity would not waiver, even in choosing to let the house close, rather than be a commercial sell-out.  The best part is that in the end, Thierry has had the last laugh.   When skincare giant Clarins bought controlling interest in Angel, he was set for life.   The millions the house never made (or actually lost) on RTW- were more than made up for by the cosmetic monster Angel has become!   I hope rumors are true and Thierry Mugler collection will find its way back on the runway again soon!

Top Fashion Designer Spotlight: Giorgio Armani

Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani is often the name you hear whispered across the red carpet at many Hollywood events. Armani’s designs and accessories are always in demand as they represent understated elegance with a distinct luxurious quality. What began as humble beginnings as a window dresser at La Rinascente, has become a fashion empire that few can rival.

From 1961-1970 he joined Nino Cerruti as a designer and then with the encouragement of his close friend Sergio Galeotti, he left Cerruti to venture out on his own into freelance design work. Within four years he established his own men’s wear label and a year later had one for women as well. Now Armani has established nine labels dabbling into more than just fashion, but cosmetics, accessories, home decor, jewelry, eyewear and watches.

While Armani is best known for his men’s line, it is his adaptation of the same lines and cuts that makes his women’s line increasingly sought after. Armani clothing is known for its precision and easy fit comfortable style.

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