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June 27, 2005

Shea Butter, A Woman's New Beauty Tradition (Cosmetic Marketing)

By Kwaku Sakyi-Addo
A woman sells shea butter at a market in Ivory Coast's main city of Abidjan June 23, 2005. In northern Ghana, tradition forbade men to stoop and pick up the fruit that fell from the towering shea nut tree. It was beneath them to do so. But that's not the case anymore. Shea butter is the new 'It' cosmetic in the West, where it is applied to smooth wrinkles and cure blemishes, while nut oil is used more and more in Europe as a cheap substitute for cocoa butter in chocolate.

In northern Ghana, tradition forbade men to stoop and pick up the fruit that fell from the towering shea nut tree. It was beneath them to do so.

But that's not the case anymore. Shea butter is the new 'It' cosmetic in the West, where it is applied to smooth wrinkles and cure blemishes, while nut oil is used more and more in Europe as a cheap substitute for cocoa butter in chocolate.

For generations women gathered the fruit, pounded the nuts, and sold the salve to feed their families. Now foreign firms and home-grown entrepreneurs are scrabbling to boost production capacity and export to lucrative foreign markets.

"We started with cashew nuts but realized there was much more potential with shea nuts and we've been going all guns blazing since we moved over," said Milind Bhat, finance director and operations manager for Blue Mont Ghana, a company which has a factory in the northern Ghanaian town of Tamale.

West Africa usually hits the international headlines when a rebel group blasts its way into a capital or a drought devastates crops in an already impoverished desert nation.

But when the leaders of the world's richest nations discuss African poverty at next month's Group of Eight (G8) summit, Ghana may be held up as an exception.

The government of the former British colony is determined that years of liberal market policies, peace and stability will drive private sector investment and economic growth.

Starting in 2001 and helped by its British-based parent, Blue Mont Ghana now employs 45 full-time staff and is seeking funds to boost capacity at its shea oil plant in northern Ghana to produce more high-value exports.

For Kwesi Abeasi, chief executive of the Ghana Investments Promotion Center, the investment and profits made by companies exporting shea nut butter are "a small slice of the great opportunities that a small country like Ghana can offer."

PLENTIFUL SUPPLY OF NUTS AND LABOUR

The shea nut trees grow easily in the savannah belt that separates the Sahara desert from the verdant, tropical coast of West Africa. They only start to bear fruit after 20 years, reach maturity after 45, but can go on producing for two centuries.
Several countries in the region export 60,000 to 80,000 metric tonnes of shea nuts each year, but the U.N.'s Food and Agriculture Organization says that could increase ten fold.

"Shea nuts could be big business for West Africa. The cosmetic and personal care industry in America is becoming more and more interested in it because consumers have discovered its magic," said Peter Lovett, a shea nut consultant, who advises the West Africa Trade Hub (WATH).

WATH, a U.S.-funded outfit with a regional office in Ghana, supports West African entrepreneurs to export their products to U.S. markets under the Africa Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA).

Blue Mont's Bhat says the advantage of being in northern Ghana, where the company has 16 permanent collection units, is that there is no shortage of nuts and good labor is plentiful.

"We can always get the cream of the people, who really want to work and make a living for themselves," he said. "Pickers can earn tens of dollars a day" during the peak rainy season. The world market price per metric ton of raw nuts is $190, crude butter sells for $450 dollars and refined butter for $900.

Little known a few years ago in North America, a four-ounce shea butter body balm can retail for $16 in boutiques across the Atlantic and demand for creamy, yellowish butter is growing.

"Shea butter is a high-value product, highly sought after by middle class suburban women," said Kara, who founded Planet Botanicals in New York in 2003 with her sister Michelle Gilfoil.

HURDLES AND RESTRICTIONS

But having a good idea and being fortunate enough to live in a relatively stable African country is not always enough.

Bhat said it was a real struggle to get going in northern Ghana because of poor infrastructure. Getting electricity and water supplies took time and 18 months after asking for a phone line, his plant is still not hooked up to the grid.

For Ghanaian entrepreneur John Hayford, breaking into foreign markets has been the toughest nut to crack.

Hayford, 43, spotted the growing niche market for shea butter in the United States a few years ago. He invested just over $2,000 in 2002 and built a machine from scrap metal in junkyards to mold the butter into cosmetics

He added a boiler to process the nuts and two years later his company, Haymor Natural Cosmetics, had turnover of $38,000 and small contracts to supply in the United States and Norway.
But restrictions in one European country meant every time he bought shea nuts from a different village, his products would have to undergo a strict testing procedure all over again.

"We hadn't anticipated that and we just couldn't keep up," Hayford told Reuters. "I'm not giving up but we've learned to try and walk through this rather than running through it."

Posted by sergeg at June 27, 2005 11:08 PM

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